Ciao a Chile

The last two weeks of July were a complete blur. We never really thought that the day would come where we would actually have to say goodbye to our new family and friends, our beautiful Chile experience. It was a month full of lasts. Izzy and I took our last trip together, and at this point we felt like travel experts. We had our last meals with our families, trained with our soccer and basketball teams for the last time and shared our last moments with our university friends. I still don’t know if I’ve fully processed all of my emotions from leaving, but what I do know about hard goodbyes is that they make the return so much sweeter.

Our last trip was to the southern city of Pucón, located around a breathtaking lake that the mountains reflect off of. It unfortunately was a bit rainy so we didn’t get to everything we wanted to but some highlights were that we stayed in an old Volkswagen van at our hostel, swam in Las Termas Geométricas, kayaked and found some really great food.

We stayed at what is claimed to be one of the best hostels in Chile, right on the lake, named Chili Kiwi. When we were searching for a place to stay we were looking for some cheaper options since it was our last trip. Us being our adventurous selves, when the van option popped up, we booked it with little hesitation. And it definitely was an adventure to say the least. When we got to the hostel, we were led to the backyard where it was parked and opened the door to about two feet of space with the bed directly in front of us. But we honestly thought it was hilarious trying to navigate staying in that thing.

The outside of our hostel, Chili Kiwi
The outside of our hostel, Chili Kiwi

Our first day we went to Las Termas Geométricas, which consists of a ton of natural hot springs that you can go swim in. It was definitely odd getting ready to swim when the mountains and bridges around us were covered in snow, but there was so much steam from the pools that we didn’t even get cold. We swam in at least 6 different pools and it was super relaxing. There were also several waterfalls around the hot springs that we could see.

The red bridges that carried through all of the Termas
The red bridges that carried through all of the Termas
Another photo of the red bridge
Another photo of the red bridge
One of the several waterfalls featured in the park
One of the several waterfalls featured in the park

Another highlight of the trip was an amazing restaurant we found called Café de la P. We loved everything we tried there, from hot chocolate to coffee to salad to their dinner selections to the chocolate that you could buy just outside the café. 

Our amazing salad and picadillos from Café de la P
Our amazing salad and picadillos from Café de la P
Hot chocolates we had the next morning
Hot chocolates we had the next morning

When we got a break from the rain, we decided to go kayaking on the lake. It was a super peaceful morning, the water was calm and we saw several interesting birds.

Izzy paddling in the front of the kayak
Izzy paddling in the front of the kayak
Kayak selfie!
Kayak selfie!
View of the town, the mountains and the dock from the water
View of the town, the mountains and the dock from the water

Once we got back to Chillán, it was time to start saying goodbye to experiences that had become routine to us. I had my last basketball game and practice, went out and ate with my team one more time, rode our last micro, ate our last complete with our university friends, went out to a really cool restaurant with Izzy’s family, Onda al Pala, that we hadn’t tried before and had our final presentation for one of our classes.

Izzy and I in front of Onda al Pala
Izzy and I in front of Onda al Pala
Izzy and I all dressed up for our final presentation
Izzy and I all dressed up for our final presentation
Last completo with our university friends
Last completo with our university friends
Comparison photo on our first day with our university friends
Comparison photo on our first day at the same place with our university friends
Our last micro ride!
Our last micro ride!
Micro Dos, the micro we always took on our way home from school
Micro Dos, the micro we always took on our way home from school

The love that I was shown by so many of the people that I met in Chile is something that will always stay with me. People are genuinely happy to see you and sit down and talk with you. And with the Hispanic/Latino culture being so centered around family, I immediately felt like I had a place there, with both my host family and my basketball team. It was a strange experience leaving because it felt like I was just starting to fully get used to the culture and language and then all of a sudden I had to leave. But I know that I now have lifelong friends and family that I can go visit whenever I can, and the memories Izzy and I have in Chile will always have a special place in our hearts. 

Me with a bunch of new basketball friends I made when we played in a tournament together
Me with a bunch of new basketball friends I made when we played in a tournament together
My last game with my university team
My last game with my university team
Izzy and I with her family on our last night
Izzy and I with her family on our last night
Izzy and I with my host parents on our last night
Izzy and I with my host parents on our last night

Lindo Chile, te voy a echar de menos y nunca te voy a olvidar.

Ciao for now, and one day I’ll return.

Jordan

Getting Outside

June included a lot of trips near our house, so we could save our money to take our longer trip to San Pedro at the end of the month into July. First, we wanted to visit one of the beaches near the coastal city, Concepción. The beach we visited was called Cobquecura. This beach is known for its giant rock that is home to many sea lions. From the shore, we were able to watch the sea lions hang out on the rock, jump off and swim with their friends. We walked along the black sand, taking in the coastal air and enjoying watching the crashing waves. I’d never been on a black sand beach, let alone seen that many sea lions in one place.

The famous rock of the Cobquecura beach, home to many sea lions
The famous rock of the Cobquecura beach, home to many sea lions
Another view of the rock with the crashing waves
Another view of the rock with the crashing waves
Sea lion sculpture
Sea lion sculpture
Cobquecura sign
Cobquecura sign

Since it’s still winter here, the coast can get even more chilly than where we live in Chillán. After walking along the beach for a while, we were super cold so we wandered up to the row of stands that were selling warm foods and drinks. We ordered orange flavored hot chocolates and they were so good we came back later and ordered another one! We walked through the tiny town, bought some chocolates and soon it was time to get back on the bus and head home. 

The amazing orange flavored hot chocolates with marshmallows and a muffin
The amazing orange flavored hot chocolates with marshmallows and a muffin

Later on, our friend Gillian from the university invited us on a hike to see Las Turbinas in the town of Los Lleuques. We caught a bus early in the morning and arrived in the town about an hour and a half later. The hike started off with around a 2 kilometer walk down what appeared to be a residential gravel road. As we kept walking, we met four dogs that followed us down the path. Eventually, we made it to a clearing with mountains all around us. These mountains were unique because we had been used to seeing ones that were a lush green or had begun to gather snow on top. These mountains, however, held captivating autumn colors such as oranges and yellows surrounded by the rich greens we’ve been used to seeing.

Mountain of autumn colors
Mountain of autumn colors
View of the mountains and the river through a tree
View of the mountains and the river through a tree

We walked down a steep set of stairs to arrive at a river where the sun shone beautifully over the running water. The dogs were still following us, and they took a break with us in the sun before we kept walking. The hike also included lots of signs indicating the many different species of trees.

Sun over the river
Sun over the river
Signs along the hike with species of trees
Signs looked like this along the hike with species of trees

The next stop were the waterfalls that this place is known for. Not one, but two streams rushed down from the river above and continued down to the river that we had just visited. Something about water is just so fascinating and calming to me. I instantly feel a rush of peace whenever I am around it. 

View of the waterfalls from the top
View of the waterfalls from the top
Lower view of the waterfalls
Lower view of the waterfalls

Fast forward a week, we spent our last weekend of June in San Fabián with our families. Not only did we enjoy lots of good food and family time, but we also managed to get outside and head to a popular viewpoint in the small town. In order to get to the viewpoint, there was a short hike to get to the top. Once we made it up, we could see the entire town down below. 

View from the top of the hill through the trees
View from the top of the hill through the trees
Viewpoint looking down at the town of San Fabián
Viewpoint looking down at the town of San Fabián

Time is passing by way too fast. We are taking advantage of every opportunity to enjoy the mountains. I simply cannot comprehend leaving my family in just a month…they feel like a part of me that will always be there.

The final two days of the month we would spend traveling to San Pedro de Atacama…but that’s for the next blog.

Ciao,
Jordan

San Pedro de Atacama

To start off the month of July, we found ourselves in perhaps the most other-worldly place that I have visited, San Pedro de Atacama. What made this such an interesting and different experience was that the city is located in the desert of Northern Chile. Especially since we live in Washington, we’re very used to seeing green trees and mountains. Everything was different in San Pedro. Instead of being surrounded by shades of green we found ourselves in a wonderland of light pinks, oranges, purples and blues. It was as if the sunset had painted everything around us.

View the entire drive surrounded by mountains and desert
View the entire drive surrounded by mountains and desert

We left on a Wednesday on a super early flight into Calama, Chile which was an hour drive from San Pedro. This was one of our trips that Linfield helped pay for through the study abroad program, so we went with Florencia who is the professor who has worked with Linfield to coordinate everything for us. We decided to rent a car since Florencia had been there a few times before, which would be cheaper in the long run because we wouldn’t have to pay for as many guides on the trip to get around and see places. The entire drive from Calama to San Pedro we were just sitting stunned at the beautiful desert around us. Before arriving in town, we stopped at a famous viewpoint called Ruta del Desierto and took pictures of the incredible landscape.

Me posing at the viewpoint headed into San Pedro looking over miles of desert
Me posing at the Ruta del Desierto viewpoint looking over miles of desert

The rest of that day was spent exploring the cutest little town of San Pedro. The architecture is so interesting there because buildings are made using adobe, which is material made of cacti, chañar, tamarugo trees, volcanic rocks and wood. It gave the buildings a very rustic vibe, perfect for a desert town. We sat down for lunch at Adobe, one of Florencia’s favorite restaurants, and all of a sudden we hear what seems to be a parade going on outside the restaurant. We ordered our food and then went to go check it out. There were several groups of dancers and people playing instruments like drums, tambourines and guitars wearing traditional clothing from Northern Chile. We noticed from one of the banners that it was a parade meant for the remembrance of the death of Saint Peter (or San Pedro whom the town is named after and is an important figure in the Catholic faith). We loved how colorful and lively the festival was and the streets were packed with people watching the parade.

Banner indicating the traditional dance Baile Catimbano being performed in devotion to San Pedro
Banner indicating the traditional dance Baile Catimbano being performed in devotion to San Pedro
Dancers in traditional clothing dancing Catimbano
Dancers in traditional clothing dancing Catimbano
Drummer and flautists playing traditional music from Northern Chile
Drummer and flautists playing traditional music from Northern Chile

After lunch, we explored the many markets along the streets, packed with vibrant, artisanal crafts and trinkets. We also stopped by the famous white church of San Pedro, where they were holding masses all day for San Pedro. That night at dinner, a band was playing traditional music from Northern Chile and we loved them so much that we followed them to the next restaurant. 

Famous church of San Pedro
Famous church of San Pedro

The next day, we went with Florencia to see the Lagunas Escondidas, (the Hidden Lagoons) and Ojos de Salar (or Salt Water Eyes). The lagoons are protected by the region and a small fee is required to enter. There are seven total hidden lagoons, but the ones we were able to see were the Laguna Cejar, Laguna Piedra, Laguna Baltinache and Laguna Tebinquiche, which was near the Ojos de Salar which are two small lagoons side by side that look like eyes. The water in these lagoons was so blue and the salt water sparkled in the sun. We even spotted flamingos in a couple of the lagoons!

Florencia, Izzy and I posing at Laguna Cejar
Florencia, Izzy and I posing at Laguna Cejar
A flamingo at Laguna Tebinquiche
A flamingo at Laguna Tebinquiche
One of the two "Ojos de Salar"
One of the two “Ojos de Salar”

On the way back, we decided to grab a bite to eat in a town even smaller than San Pedro called Toconao. We explored their markets and found a well-known snack from Northern Chile which are quinoas but they’re light and fluffy and sweet. We also met a llama behind one of the markets, whose fur is used to weave some of the artisanal crafts and clothing. That night we returned to San Pedro and listened to a different band that played traditional music. 

Llama in Toconao
Llama in Toconao
One of the beautiful sunsets in San Pedro
One of the beautiful sunsets in San Pedro

The next day would be an even longer day of touring outside the city. We went with Florencia again and first arrived at Valle de Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley). It has this name because the rocks surrounding the valley contain a variety of concentrations of clay, salts and minerals that have changed their colors over time to be red, beige, green, white and yellow. The contrast against the bright blue sky was amazing to see. It almost felt like we were walking through a Dr. Seuss book.

Green, purple and red rock at Rainbow Valley
Green, purple and red rock at Rainbow Valley
More Dr. Seuss-like rocks
More Dr. Seuss-like rocks

Later that day, we visited Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley). It’s called this because it is one of the best places in the world to see the moon at night, but we decided to go during the day to take advantage of the four viewpoints that you can hike/visit. It’s such an interesting place because it has various stone and sand formations which have been formed by wind and water. The range of color and texture is impressive, looking similar to the surface of the moon, literally making us feel like we were on another planet. There are also dry salt water lakes which create the white layer covering the area.

The most perfect sand dune to start off our exploration at Valle de la Luna
The most perfect sand dune to start off our exploration at Valle de la Luna
The dirt paths we followed through the valley
The dirt paths we followed through the valley
Izzy and I with the hills in the valley covered in salt
Izzy and I with the hills in the valley covered in salt
View from the top of the last viewpoint
View from the top of the last viewpoint

That night, we realized a little too late that we might need guides for the places we had left to see. After dinner, we found a tourism and guide business that happened to still be open and we were able to secure the last two spots on a tour to see the Geysers del Tatio the next morning and the Astronomical Tour during the night time.

The only thing with the Geysers tour was that we had to wake up at 4 in the morning to get picked up by our tour bus. While the first hour was quite cold, we were much more comfortable after the sun came out and the pictures made the trip well worth it. These geysers are 4,200 meters or 13,779.53 feet high in the mountains and the water that spurts out from them is 185 degrees fahrenheit, which creates the steaming effect.

Sunrise before seeing the Geysers, featuring the Chilean flag
Sunrise before seeing the Geysers, featuring the Chilean flag
Sun rising and the landscape of geysers
Sun rising and the landscape of geysers
Sun peeking through the steam
Sun peeking through the steam
Sun fully risen over some run-off from the geysers
Sun fully risen over some run-off from the geysers

Later that night was our last activity of the trip, the Astronomical Tour. We met our tour guide in town and we took a van out to a closed off area where there were benches for us to see the stars and telescopes for us to get a closer look. First, we learned about all of the different constellations that were out that night. There were so many, I don’t remember all of the ones that our guide talked about. However, there was one that was especially cool called the Southern Cross, which is only visible to the naked eye from the Southern Hemisphere. Our guide even pointed out star signs such as Virgo, Capricorn, Sagittarius and Leo.

Next, it was our turn to take a photo with a special camera in front of the stars. After that, we looked at specific planets, stars and galaxies through a few different telescopes.

The breathtaking stars featuring Izzy and I
The breathtaking stars featuring Izzy and I
The "Sombrero Galaxy" we saw through one of the telescopes
The “Sombrero Galaxy” we saw through one of the telescopes
"Unistellar" galaxy we saw through a telescope
“Unistellar” galaxy we saw through a telescope

We already want to return to San Pedro, it was a completely magical experience. And, we can now say we’ve experienced all of the different environments of Chile, from the dry but pleasantly warm desert in the North, to the windy beaches, to the small town feel of Chillán and to the refreshing air and lush greens of the South.

Saludos,

Jordan Worthington

Worlds Collide

Early this month, I was lucky enough to welcome my boyfriend, Marques, to the country I’ve called home the past three months. He was not only excited to see me, but also to experience a new dialect of Spanish that he hadn’t encountered before. Having grown up in a Spanish-speaking household, he is fluent in both English and Spanish, so getting around here wouldn’t be a problem for him.  I was also lucky enough to be on break from school that week, so it worked out perfectly.

Our week together started with meeting him at the airport. He got in at night, so all we had time for was grabbing Chilean ceviche at one of the cool restaurants near our AirBnB. One of my favorite dishes here is the ceviche, made with salmon and/or shrimp in a delicious sauce with vegetables.

Ceviche and bread rolls
Ceviche and bread rolls

The next day was when the real adventures began. After grabbing a quick breakfast panini, we first stopped at Cerro Santa Lucía since it was right next to our AirBnB. Izzy and I had visited here before, but we were able to find a couple new spots to take pictures and enjoy the view of the city.

Marques and I in front of the Santa Lucía fountain
Marques and I in front of the Santa Lucía fountain
Me posing at the top of the Santa Lucía viewpoint
Me posing at the top of the Santa Lucía viewpoint

After that, we headed to the Palacio de la Moneda and then the Museo de Bellas Artes. The museum had free admission which was a great benefit, and there were so many unique paintings and sculptures to admire.

One of the many beautiful white marble statues on display at the museum
One of the many beautiful white marble statues on display at the museum
Sculpture of King David's head
Sculpture of King David’s head

Cerro de San Cristobal was our next stop, and it was definitely my favorite. We were able to find a cable car that took us all the way to the top of the hill where there was a path called, “Camino de las Siete Palabras” that led to a huge statue of San Cristobal. The path featured seven crosses, all painted differently, representing the seven days of creation in the Catholic faith.

Marques and I taking a cable car up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal
Marques and I taking a cable car up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal
One of the seven painted crosses with a view
One of the seven painted crosses with a view
Marques and I in front of the San Cristobal statue
Marques and I in front of the San Cristobal statue

The day after Santiago, we took an hour and a half bus to Valparaíso. We of course enjoyed the famous street art and piano stairs before grabbing one of Chile’s most well-known foods, the completo. It’s essentially a giant hot dog with your choice of avocado, tomato, mayonnaise, ketchup and mustard. We did a lot of walking around on this day, enjoying the colorful houses and environment around us.

Completos
Completos

We then headed to Pablo Neruda’s “La Sebastiana” house. It was so cool to have been able to see both his Santiago and Valparaíso house and compare them.

Pablo Neruda's house in Valparaíso
Pablo Neruda’s house in Valparaíso
View of the colorful houses from Pablo Neruda's house
View of the colorful houses from Pablo Neruda’s house

By this time, the sun was about to set so we headed to the beach to watch the sunset. The sky is truly unlike anything I’ve seen here. There is almost always a beautiful sunset with vibrant colors begging to have their photo taken. It was then time to get some food, so we went around to a couple different restaurants taking advantage of our time on the coast to try Chilean seafood.

The next day was an absolute rainstorm, which caused our flight from Santiago to Concepción to be canceled. Our original plan was to meet my host family in Concepción since they had rented a beach house for the entire family to stay at. Since our flight was canceled we ended up having to take a long bus ride and then an Uber to  Pingueral beach to meet my family but we eventually made it!

The following day we spent talking with the family, sharing stories and enjoying a wonderful lunch in the afternoon. We barbecued meat and sausage and had salad, corn and potatoes to accompany it. Marques was quieter than usual, completely taking in the new dialect and listening intently to see how much he could catch. It was so interesting to watch because it was like watching how I felt when I first got to Chile. My family loved getting to know him, and it was also interesting for them to converse with someone who speaks in a Mexican dialect. The rest of the day we spent playing card games and enjoying down time.

It wasn’t as rainy the day after, so my siblings, their boyfriends, Marques, Izzy  and I went to the beach to take pictures. We spent time with the family the rest of the day and then returned to my hometown, Chillán. Marques and I talked with my family for a long time at “once” and compared cultural traditions. We shared photos and videos from trips we’ve gone on together and simply enjoyed each other’s company. An opportunity like this for both me and my family would not come often.

Izzy, Marques and I on the beach
Izzy, Marques and I on the beach

To end the trip, I wanted Marques to be able to see the incredible Andes mountains, one of my favorite parts of Chile. We took an early bus to Las Trancas and started our short, but steep hike to a viewpoint of the mountains. Once we got to the top, it was all worth it. The mountaintops were covered in snow since it’s winter here,  but the sun still shone brightly overhead creating the perfect setting for pictures.

Snowy Andes mountain
Snowy Andes mountain

The next day, it was time to say goodbye, but it was so surreal to have a piece of home with me in my new favorite place. Watching my two worlds collide was an experience that I will never forget.

Jordan

Halfway Through

As I write this blog, I’m sitting here thinking about how everything felt like it was moving at a million miles per hour back in March. A week would pass, but it felt like we had done a month’s worth of things. Now, Izzy and I are finding ourselves to be more independent, having now completed two trips by ourselves.

But we’ve found that being able to do that has made time move so much faster. It’s a really strange but also a really cool experience studying abroad in a country where I’m constantly using Spanish. I’ve been forced to listen more and I’ve found that my brain sometimes thinks in Spanish first when I begin to say something in English. I’ve thought a lot about the concept of only being able to fully express yourself with your native language. Sometimes, there are feelings that I simply can’t express in Spanish, just like there are also phrases or feelings that don’t directly translate to English. I’ve had to take on a new personality abroad because I can’t make all the same jokes or references that I’m used to. A

t times I miss being able to express my old self, but I’m constantly navigating how to express myself in a new way which has been so fascinating. Right now, I can’t imagine going back home and feeling like I’m losing the part of myself that I’ve built here. Coming to terms with the fact that we’re halfway done is not something I’m loving, but I’m continuing to make the most of every moment as best I can.

Excuse my soapbox, back to traveling:)

Last week, Izzy and I had the pleasure of visiting the South of Chile to hike the base of Torres del Paine national park. It’s quite the process of actually getting to the park, but we were up for the challenge. First, visitors have to fly to Punta Arenas, later catch a bus to Puerto Natales and finally take another bus or van with a guide to arrive at the park. We left early on a Tuesday, and traveled almost the entire day since we had a connecting flight with a layover. After enjoying a beautiful sunset and taking pictures with the famous Punta Arenas sign, we stayed the night there in a hostel and got up the next day to take a bus to Puerto Natales after enjoying breakfast.

Izzy and I in front of the famous Punta Arenas sign
Izzy and I in front of the famous Punta Arenas sign
Izzy and I on a dock facing Antarctica
Izzy and I on a dock facing Antarctica

The bus ride to get there was about three hours long, but we arrived just in time to catch the sunset and take some beautiful pictures of the mountains overlooking the water. After grabbing some dinner, we had to get some last minute details organized with getting a tour guide for the hike the next morning. Once everything was in order, we settled into our next hostal, ready to take on the hike the next day.

Izzy and I watching the sunset in Puerto Natales
Izzy and I watching the sunset in Puerto Natales
Another shot of the sunset in Puerto Natales
Another shot of the sunset in Puerto Natales

Our alarms sounded at 5:45am the next morning since our guide was going to pick us up at our hostel around 6:15. We slept for almost the entire two hour drive to the base of the Torres. Our guide gave us walking sticks and we were all bundled up in our hiking gear because it was COLD. Keep in mind we were in the South of Chile…very close to Antarctica. But once our bodies got used to the temperature the hiking got easier and we just kept the end goal in mind as we made our way up. After going up many hills, scaling some rocks and having quite a few snack breaks, we finally made it to the famous viewpoint. In the native Tehuelche language, “Torres” means “towers” and “Paine” means “blue.” We soon could see with our own eyes why it was given this name. The three torres began to form around 12 million years ago when glacial erosion caused the sedimentary layers of earth to wear down and leave the granite rock towers that can be seen today. Basking in the presence of this view has to be one of the top highlights of our entire trip so far.

Beginning our hike with the sunrise over the mountains
Beginning our hike with the sunrise
River running through the valley halfway through the hike
River running through the valley halfway through the hike
The Torres peeking through the clouds over the lake
The Torres peeking through the clouds
River running from the lake at the viewpoint
River running from the lake at the viewpoint
Another glacier to the side of Torres
Another glacier to the side of Torres
Sunset and the Torres in the distance. 
Photo credit to Izzy
Sunset and the Torres in the distance.
Photo credit to Izzy

The next morning was lowkey, as our bodies were recovering a bit from hiking for so long. We enjoyed a couple delicious hot chocolates at a café with a mountain view before catching a bus back to Punta Arenas. We still had two more days to enjoy the coastal city. We didn’t have much of a plan, but we knew there was a lot to see in the city. However, not everything we wanted to see was very close to each other. Then, we had the brilliant idea that we should rent bikes for the day to get around easier and this was hands down one of the best decisions we made. We rode along the coast and enjoyed the sun on our faces and the wind in our hair. 

Sunrise in Punta Arenas
Sunrise in Punta Arenas
Maritime Monument with sunrise in the background
Maritime Monument

Our first stop was the Cemetery of Punta Arenas, which sounds a little strange but the architecture of a lot of the gravesites was truly amazing. There were many extravagant structures built around the grave and it was cool to see how so many families continue to celebrate their loved ones who passed away.

A gravesite for the "Daughters of Maria Auxiliadora"
A gravesite for the “Daughters of Maria Auxiliadora”
A gravesite for the entire José Hernández Family
A gravesite for the entire José Hernández Family
Cross displayed at the entrance of the cemetery
Cross displayed at the entrance of the cemetery

Next, we made our way to the well-known Cerro de la Cruz which was a beautiful viewpoint at the top of a hill in the city. We were able to look out and see almost the entire city and the sea from a bird’s eye view.

Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint overlooking colorful houses and water
Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint

After we rode around a little bit more looking for souvenirs and exploring a little more, we turned our bikes in and stopped for a late lunch. Later that night, we decided to book a last-minute tour for super cheap to one of the southernmost points of Chile to see a famous faro (lighthouse). It was built in 1904 where the first outposts of Spanish conquerors were established in the Strait of Magellan.

Faro San Isidro
Faro San Isidro
Izzy and I posing at the top of the hill where we saw the lighthouse
Izzy and I posing at the top of the hill where we saw the lighthouse

We also were able to see another historic place on our way back, called Fuerte Bulnes. Named after President Manuel Bulnes Prieto, the fort was built to further his colonization policies and protect the Strait of Magellan. It is considered the first Chilean settlement which was really interesting to be able to see and imagine people living in this tiny area. 

Entrance to the fort
Entrance to the fort
Cannons the settlers used for defense

After driving back and picking up our stuff at our hostel, it was time to head to the airport to catch our flight back home. We were able to pack so much into our time in the South of Chile and we’re so grateful for our time there.

The following weekend, the professor for study abroad students that took us to Valpraíso, Florencia Casanova, allowed us to stay in her apartment in Santiago for the weekend to explore the capital. We took a bus up to the city Friday afternoon and enjoyed a delicious ramen restaurant before taking a walk through the park. We then headed back to the apartment to plan out all of the things we wanted to see the next day. And, of course, we had to try the ice cream place across the street.

Saturday was a very busy day, packed with seeing famous tourist locations. We started our day in one of the most central points of the city, the neighborhood of Bellavista. This area was very interesting, as we observed lots of graffiti and street art as a form of protesting part government figures/policies. Chile has endured a long journey to be able to exercise the rights that they do today, as the country was once under the dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet and other very conservative leaders that followed him.

n example of some of the graffiti and street art 
in Plaza Baquedano
An example of some of the graffiti and street art
in Plaza Baquedano

We then decided to take a tour through one of the three houses of Pablo Neruda that are still standing and now used as tourist attractions. Unfortunately, we were only allowed to take pictures outside the house but not inside. Neruda was, and still is, a well-known Chilean poet and diplomat who won the Nobel Peace Prize for Literature in 1971. He was a close advisor to Salvador Allende, who was the first ever Marxist or left-leaning president to ever be elected. Neruda’s legacy seems to still be highly criticized by citizens with more traditional views as he was an ardent Communist, and some even think that he was killed by the Pinochet regime for his pro-Allende views. In any case, it’s super cool that all three of his houses are still standing and being used to honor his stance and work against the dictatorship.

The outside of Pablo Neruda's house
The outside of Pablo Neruda’s house
A gravestone representing Pablo Neruda’s admiration
for Czech poet, Jan Neruda

Our next stop was the Cerro de Santa Lucía, where we climbed a small hill and had a beautiful view of the city. We loved seeing the statues and old brick walls that were present on this hill.

View of the city and mountains from the top of the hill.
View from the top of the hill
Park at the top of the hill
Park at the top of the hill

The last stop before dinner was the Palacio de la Moneda, the famous building which houses the president, Gabriel Boric, and his three cabinet ministers. During the presidency of Manuel Bulnes, who also led in the colonization of Fuerte Bulnes which we visited the week before, the palace became the place of presidential residence.

Palacio de la Moneda
Palacio de la Moneda
Chilean flag blowing in the wind in front of the Palacio
Chilean flag blowing in the wind in front of the Palacio

Although our trip to Santiago was short, we were able to see many locations in a small amount of time, and we even figured out how the metro system worked there!

Whew, that was a lot of writing. The month of May has flown by, but we’re looking forward to the adventures that await and we’re continuing to learn and grow in the Spanish language every day. 

Hasta la próxima,

Jordan

First Month Highlights

I’ve officially spent an entire month in Chile, but it feels like I’ve been here for so much longer. Everything is becoming more familiar. I know which streets the city bus takes to get from the school back home, I understand the dialect more and more every day, I’m training with the university’s basketball team and I’m finally feeling comfortable. I still have a lot to learn, but the initial shock of being here has passed.

One of the highlights of this month has been spending the weekend in San Fabián to celebrate Semana Santa and el Día de Pascua (Easter). Izzy and I both went with our families who have vacation houses next to each other.

We spent Saturday taking a short hike through the countryside nearby. At the end of the trail there was a beautiful river where we relaxed in the sun and took photos with our family. The rest of the day was spent lounging under the shade of a huge tree in a field near the end of the trail, surrounded by the picturesque Andes Mountains. We enjoyed a delicious picnic with many popular Chilean snacks such as crackers with cheese or salsa, ham and cheese sandwiches, fruit and a pastry called calzones rotos.

After eating, my host dad showed us the national Chilean bird, the Condor, flying in a flock above us amongst the tall trees. We found flat rocks to skip and had a competition for whoever could skip them the furthest. All in all, it was a day of enjoying each other’s company and the beautiful area around us.

Me posing on a rock by the river at the end of our hike
Me posing by the river at the end of our hike

Me giving Izzy a piggy-back ride halfway through our hike
Izzy and I halfway through our hike     

Another highlight has to have been our recent trip to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar, two more touristy cities in Chile about an hour northwest of Santiago. This was a trip that we got to take with our study abroad coordinator, Florencia, who has visited these cities many times before with other students.

As part of our study abroad program, there is money included to be able to go on two trips with her, and this was our first one. We stayed in Viña del Mar, in a hotel called Cape Ducal that was built to look like a vintage boat. Our room overlooked the sea and some of the city and we watched the sunset from our balcony the night we arrived.

Our hotel, Cap Ducal, that was built to look like a vintage cruise ship
Our hotel, Cap Ducal

The next morning, we wanted to see a couple famous locations in Viña del Mar before we headed to Valparaíso. The first was called Castillo Wulff, a historic castle overlooking the sea, which was built for the Wulff family of German immigrants in 1906. We then stopped at the Reloj de Flores, which is a giant, functioning clock made of flowers and a popular spot for tourists to take photos.

Castillo Wulff, a castle with a tower built in 1906
Castillo Wulff

Reloj de Flores, a giant functioning clock made from red and green flowers
Reloj de Flores

We were then off to Valparaíso, a city known for its steep hills and colorful houses. The architecture is reminiscent of Europe, which is attributed to the influx of European immigrants who arrived in the 19th century. We caught a micro, (a local bus), to make the short ride over from Viña del Mar. The area that we stopped in was filled with shops, restaurants, colorful buildings and wall murals. We probably spent two hours just walking around, taking photos and soaking everything in. The city was so refreshing for us to see since it had a completely different feel and style than our small town of Chillán. 

Izzy and I posing with a famous set of stairs that have the lyrics of "Calle 13" by Latinoamérica painted on them
Izzy and I posing with a famous set of stairs that have the lyrics of “Calle 13” by Latinoamérica painted on them

A view of some of the colorful houses on a hill that fill Valpraíso
A view of some of the colorful houses that fill Valparaíso

After we explored for a while, it was time to grab some lunch. We stopped at a restaurant called Fauna, where we could see an expansive view of the city right from our table. Valparaíso is known for its seafood, so I figured I had to try their salmon, and it was absolutely delicious! It was so relaxing to just talk with each other and enjoy our surroundings.

Izzy and I ventured off on our own after lunch to shop at the markets in Plaza Sotomayor. There were all kinds of handmade products being sold, such as jewelry, clothing, spices, magnets, key chains and knitted stuffed animals amongst many other items. To end our day, we stopped for a scoop of ice cream before catching another micro back to our hotel and watching the sunset from the beach.

The next morning, we visited sand dunes in Concón, a city about 20 minutes away from Viña del Mar. We hiked to the top of the highest dune and had so much fun taking photos and running barefoot through the soft sand. It was a relaxing change of pace from the bustling city of Valparaíso and we were grateful that we were able to experience both environments. Once we returned that afternoon, it was time to make the long drive back to Chillán.

A panorama of the expanse of sand dunes that we visited
A panorama of the expanse of sand dunes that we visited

The view of the waves from the sea crashing into rocks on the other side of the dunes
The view of the sea on the other side of the dunes

April has held a wide range of experiences for us. While we’ve been able to enjoy lots of family time and become more comfortable speaking Spanish, we’ve also become more confident in ourselves and have taken our first trip away from our families. Each day spent here leaves us more sure of our ability to communicate and get around in an area that at first seemed so foreign. If we’ve already changed and learned this much in just a month, I can only imagine where we’ll be by the end. All I’m focusing on is appreciating every moment.

Hasta pronto,
Jordan

¿Cachai?

My favorite Chilean word that I’ve learned so far is ¿Cachai? which essentially means, “Did you catch what I was saying?” or “Do you understand me?” If you do understand, you would respond with, “Cacho,” essentially meaning, “Yes I caught that.”

For some reason, I just have a fascination with this word and love when people say it. Part of it is probably because it is entirely unique to Chilean Spanish and I think it adds so much character to the language and pulls people into the story, making them want to respond and interact. 

The first person in Chile who explained this word to me was my host brother, Joaquín. One night, I decided to walk into his room while he was playing video games and noticed that he had FIFA 2022 downloaded. I joked with him, saying that the only games I know how to play are that game and 2K, not expecting anything except maybe a laugh from him. Not only did I get that, but he asked me if I wanted to play him in FIFA. 

I lost many times. But sitting here writing this, I am so glad that I walked into his room that night because I have learned a surprising amount from playing video games with him. There are so many words involved in a video game that you don’t necessarily think about in everyday life. And it has been in an office chair with a controller in my hand that I have learned some of my favorite Chilean words and phrases, just like “Cachai.”

I wanted to highlight this experience that I have had because it has really made me realize that studying abroad isn’t just about the incredible sights that you get to go out and see. While I’m very grateful to have access to these experiences, I feel that studying abroad is also about seeing life from this whole new perspective. At the same time, I’ve realized that after spending time with the people and learning more of the language, underneath we are all the same.

This is why learning Spanish has been one of the most rewarding aspects of my life because I’m able to break the language barrier and truly connect with people that I otherwise never would have known on a personal or friend level. My host siblings and I like the same types of TikToks, Joaquín has showed me more American music than I have discovered on my own, and we all have similar memories about songs we remember from the 2000s or Vines from 2012. Sometimes I think that being from the United States we are so focused on each other’s differences and what we disagree on, rather than the little things in life that really matter. The little things show us that we really aren’t all that different apart from the nation we call home.

Right around this time, I could have started getting homesick. And don’t get me wrong, I miss my friends and family. But sometimes, since I have been able to get to know my family more through the use of Spanish, it feels like I already have a piece of home with me. And I feel like this mirrors the reason why I love the first word Joaquín explained to me, “Cachai.” My host family is always trying to include me in conversations and teach me more of the slang so that I can more easily follow the conversation. It’s still very difficult to tell you the truth, but more and more often, I’m finding myself saying, “Sí, cacho.”

So while it may seem like the main thing that studying abroad offers is the amazing sights, there is also so much value in the downtime, or more “mundane” moments of life while living with a host family. 

If anyone needs me tonight, chances are I’ll be playing video games.

Hasta luego,
Jordan

First Week in Chile

After getting all settled in with our host families and figuring out our class schedules, it was time to do a little exploring. All of the international students at our university get assigned tutors to help them through the process, and honestly, I don’t know what we would have done without ours. On Thursday, the 18th, they helped us get our schedules sorted out, and afterwards, gave us a tour of the university so that we would know where our classes were. This took up most of our morning, and since nothing was planned for the afternoon, our tutors wanted to take us through the “Centro” of Chillán which is essentially the most “hustle-and-bustle” that you can find in this small town. 

We walked about a mile from the university and chatted with the tutors, getting to know them a little better on the way. Their names are Juan Pablo, Edward, and Gillian, who all are studying English at the University. It’s really been a win-win situation because they have been helping us with our Spanish and we have been helping them with their English.

Before we got to the Centro, we had to stop to get some food. Juan Pablo urged me to try a “completo,” which is essentially a Chilean hot dog with your choice of  mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard and avocado. This was easily the biggest hot dog I have ever eaten, and probably one of the messiest too, but every bite was worth it. We finished eating pretty quickly since we all were hungry, but we stayed at our table and chatted for at least an hour afterwards. The thing about Chile is that no one really seems to have set plans. They take every day as it comes and they aren’t stressed about how long anything will take or worrying about what else they have to be doing. The people here genuinely enjoy connecting with each other, even if that means staying out much longer than what might be considered “normal” for people in the U.S.

We arrived at the Centro after we were done, and the street was lined with stands where vendors were selling jewelry, pastries and other handmade knick-knacks. Past this market was the plaza where you can find a famous Catholic church in Chillán, called Charles Borromeo Cathedral, as well as a statue of Bernardo O’Higgins, who freed Chile from Spanish rule in the Chilean War of Independence.

The next day, we went downtown again with the tutors to get a few things sorted out with our visa documents. Once we were finished there, they took us to get our first, “mote con huesillo,” which is a special Chilean dessert/drink made with wheat and peaches. We also enjoyed candy that can only be found in Chile, which was fun to try.

That wasn’t all of the activity that the first week held in store. Isabel and I are lucky enough to have host families that are actually also family. My host mom, Ana María, is the sister of Isabel’s host dad, Ricardo. Due to this, our families do a lot of stuff together. One of the main things is the family vacation house in San Fabián, about an hour-and-a-half drive east of Chillán, in the Andes Mountains. Each of our families has a house side-by-side, with a cabin-like feel and incredible view of two mountain peaks.

After staying a night in the cabin, our main activity in San Fabián was driving through the Andes Mountain trails to get to one of Ricardo’s favorite spots to eat lunch and chat. We stopped a few times along the way to take pictures of the beautiful views. After we ate, we played dominoes and card games on a picnic blanket before heading home to Chillán.

To think that it has only been a week since we got to Chillán makes me so excited for all that is in store for Isabel and I on this incredible journey. The dialect is already becoming more familiar, and it’s beginning to sink in for us that we will truly be living a Chilean life filled with spontaneity, fun and family time for these next four months.

Nos vemos,

Jordan

Charles Borromeo Cathedral, known for its unique dome shape
Charles Borromeo Cathedral, known for its unique dome shape

(From left) Edward, Gillian, Isabel, myself and Juan Pablo enjoying lunch at the completo stand
(From left) Edward, Gillian, Isabel, myself and Juan Pablo enjoying lunch at the completo stand

Statue of Bernardo O’Higgins in the plaza
Statue of Bernardo O’Higgins in the plaza

Myself and Isabel enjoying the incredible view of the Andes Mountains in San Fabián
Myself and Isabel enjoying the incredible view of the Andes Mountains in San Fabián

Myself, Paulina my host aunt, Isabel and my host cousin Ignacia playing dominoes
Myself, Paulina my host aunt, Isabel and my host cousin Ignacia playing dominoes

 

Arriving in Chile

Arriving in Chile

Finally being on a plane headed to Chile was one of the most surreal experiences I have had in my life. For two years, I have been anticipating and planning for this trip, and with COVID restrictions ever-changing, it sometimes felt like I would never arrive. But there we were, Isabel and I, navigating the Santiago airport to go through customs, collect our bags and somehow locate our shuttle bus to get to our hotel for the night. We had been traveling for almost 24 hours, from 10pm last Monday night until 10pm the next day, with a layover in Mexico City in between. We had absolutely no concept of time when we finally crashed in our hotel room. All we knew was that we were in Chile and that this was only the beginning of the trip that already felt like a dream.

The next morning, we met Florencia Casanova Luna from the English program at the Universidad del Bío Bío, our new university for the upcoming semester. She picked us up and drove us four hours south to Chillán, a region in Chile where our host families live. When I arrived at my host family’s house, I had no idea what to expect. My host mom had messaged me that they were excited to have me, and I had a picture of what they looked like, but other than that, I didn’t have any other information. 

First, I met my host sister, who is also named Florencia, and my host brother, Joaquin, who was nice enough to lend me his room for my stay. He immediately reminded me of my own brother at home, with posters of classic American rock bands hung up all over his walls. I didn’t mind that they were still there, it felt like a part of home.

Later, I met my host dad, Mauricio, and my host mom, Ana María, along with my other host brother, Vicente. They were so welcoming and kind, and wanted to know all of the interesting things about me, my family and my life in the United States. We sat down for “once” which is a meal that Chileans have between their lunch and dinner between 8:00 and 9:00pm. Sometimes this meal even replaces dinner if it goes on for long enough. Usually, there is bread served with butter and ham, or marmalade if you would rather have that, as well as avocado toast. This particular once lasted longer than normal, as the family members were getting to know me, and vice versa. This first meal with them is truly something I will never forget. The new dialect of Spanish that I had never heard before was both overwhelming but also incredibly interesting.

I have already learned and absorbed so much, even though I have mostly found myself sitting and listening instead of participating in most of the conversations. The Chilean dialect is so much faster and more complicated than any other I have heard because they have their own unique slang terms and speak at a much more rapid pace. I’m constantly taking in new information and my family helps me out by explaining as many slang terms as they can and slowing down their speech. I can only imagine how much my Spanish is going to improve by the end of this experience.

Ciao for now,

Jordan

Isabel (left) and I (right) posing for a photo at the airport before we say goodbye to our families
Isabel (left) and I (right) posing for a quick photo at the airport before we say goodbye to our families

Until next time

The littlest things about being back in the United States have made me miss Chile the most: the way that we use balsamic vinaigrette instead of just lemon juice and olive oil as salad dressing or how we don’t greet each other with a hug and a kiss on the cheek. I’ve now been back home for almost three weeks, and although they say that re-entry is one of the hardest parts of study abroad, I guess I didn’t think it would feel like this.

I left for study abroad in a pivotal time in my college career, I had had a less than perfect sophomore year and my lifelong lust for travel had finally reached its boiling point. When I think about taking off in August I remember being terrified of the unknown but excited to temporarily leave all of my trivial issues behind.

Everyone back home asks about my experience out of courtesy but I almost don’t even know how to respond. No one here can ever know what I went through, what I learned or how I’ve grown. And that is both lonely and lovely. I now have this one precious thing that’s mine and mine only, but I can’t help but feel like I wish I had someone who could relate to my experience to be with me here at home right now.

I’m going to miss Florencia, Claudia, Diego, Gabriel, Ivan, Pablo, Cata, Javier, and Ro,  the English students I tutored, and the intriguing people I met while traveling. I’m going to miss the fresh produce from the street markets, the bright green palm trees and the reggaeton music heard on practically every corner. I’m going to miss all of the new places I saw– from the arid north Chilean desert to the chic skyscrapers of Buenos Aires and the lush Peruvian jungle to the deep blue of the sea off Patagonia’s coastline.

But the thing perhaps I’ll miss more than any of that other stuff is the way I’ve changed. I’ve never been as confident in myself as I was when I was abroad, just figuring out how to communicate and travel and study in what seemed like virtually a different world completely on my own. I’ve now seen and lived through things that no one will understand but me, and although at some points in the past two and a half weeks it’s felt like I’m losing the part of myself I grew into in Chile, I know now that it’s something that will forever be a part of me. And that’s absolutely priceless.

A mi querido Chile, volveré por ti. Gracias por todo lo que me ha enseñado.

Camille  

Camille, the author